Scuba Diving Equipment - Scuba Tanks
When you’re zipping through underwater caves, examining lobsters and descending into the depths of the ocean, the last thing you want to worry about is swimming horizontally or potentially running out of air. Choosing the right scuba tanks, fastening them properly and maintaining maximum efficiency will ensure that your diving vacation is awe-inspiring and relaxing. The only thing you should worry about is getting the right photographs to show to land-dwellers!
While buoyancy seems like a simple concept (we add air to our BCD, inhale and float along at what is called “neutral buoyancy”), some novice divers have a hard time maintaining their depth and are constantly fidgeting with the valves and hoses. Sometimes just having the proper tank for your particular diving trip can be a huge help.
There are two main materials for scuba tanks. The first one is aluminum, which is popular among older divers for its light weight and easy transport. Technical divers, warm water reef swimmers and beginners take to the aluminum scuba tanks, which are far less expensive than steel tanks. The advanced diver may shy away from aluminum because these tanks carry half the lifespan and can dent or get stripped at the regulator hookup spot.
When you’re diving in cold water with a thermally insulating dive suit, you’re better off with a heavier cylinder made of steel. Steel scuba tanks, while they may cost twice as much as aluminum, they are more resistant to dents for those cave dives and resist corrosion for the hardcore divers. A problem with many aluminum tanks is that they can get stripped from screwing on the regulator time and time again. This is not an issue with the steel tank.
Another problem many new divers have with scuba tanks is in the positioning. Did you know that a cylinder placed higher on the back puts a diver in a naturally head-down position? Conversely, a cylinder worn too low will leave divers feet-heavy. You can improve your air consumption by placing the cylinder a little higher, just below the head, so that you are naturally horizontal.
You can purchase tanks at 50, 70.2 and 80 cubic feet levels. New divers are advised to purchase either 71 or 80 because they will likely need more air. Larger scuba tanks are harder to find but can still be found for those going on very long excursions. Auxiliary or pony tanks hold 10-40 cubic feet of air and are strapped onto the larger tank for backup.
Your local dive shop will refill your tank, as needed. Scuba tanks should be hydrostatically tested to check pressure every five years, at minimum — although many recommend testing it every year. Steel tanks can rust into iron oxide and require slightly more maintenance than aluminum tanks, which can also get aluminum oxide. Remember to keep your tank in a safe place away from fire or temperatures that may exceed 350 Fahrenheit.
By Sports Info Editor
Click here for details about Scuba Diving - The magazine divers trust! Featuring in-depth scuba equipment comparative reviews, dive travel destination reports and feature articles on diving environment, aquatic life, diver nutrition and health.
